1. Check lights and wipers for visibility.With shorter days and inclement weather ahead, make sure lights and wipers function properly so that you can see and be seen. Check wiper blades for signs of wear and replace if necessary.
2. Get an annual brake inspection. The braking system is your car’s most important safety feature. Before carpool season gets in full swing, make sure that your brakes are functioning properly. Schedule a brake inspection and look for warning signs that your vehicle may need brake service, such as an illuminated brake light or screeching, grinding or clicking noises when applying the brakes.
3. Check tires for under inflation or excessive wear.Check tire pressure and refill underinflated tires, including the spare, and look for uneven wear and check tread depth.
4. Make sure everyone is buckled up. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) website has important tips on seat belt fit and position. For the younger ones riding along, the site has information about how to install car seats as well as guidelines on selecting a car seat or booster based on your child’s age and size.
5. Consider a back-up detection device.Consider having a back-up detection device installed that provides rearview video or warning sounds when moving in reverse. While drivers should not rely solely on these devices, they can help to reduce the risk of back-over incidents along with following other prevention tips from NHTSA.

One of several things can prevent your vehicle’s A/C system from blowing cold air. The most common reason for no cold air is no or low refrigerant in the A/C system (usually because of a refrigerant leak). Another cause might be that your A/C compressor is not engaging when you turn the A/C on. The underlying cause for this could be low refrigerant in the system, a defective compressor clutch, or a blown compressor clutch fuse. Another possible cause of no cooling could be a defective or stuck air flow control flap inside the HVAC system that prevents air from circulating through the A/C evaporator core. The system is cooling but the cold air is not being routed into your vehicle.

For additional help see Troubleshooting an A/C system that blows warm air

Why is my A/C system low on refrigerant?

A/C systems are pressurized and are not supposed to leak. But over time, seals and hoses can deteriorate allowing refrigerant to leak. The compressor shaft seal is a common leak point. Other places were refrigerant can leak include the A/C condenser in front of the radiator, or the A/C evaporator inside the HVAC plenum under the dash.

How can I find a refrigerant leak?

Look for oily residue on the outside of refrigerant hoses or where hoses and pipes connect to other components in the system. Oily streaks radiating outward from the front of the A/C compressor would indicate a leak shaft seal. Look for damage to the A/C condenser caused by rocks or other road debris. Leaks in the evaporator core are impossible to see because of its hidden location inside the HVAC system, so an electronic leak detector may be needed to reveal such a leak.

If the A/C system still contains some refrigerant or has been recharged, turn the system on and spray soapy water on suspected leak points. If you see bubbled, you have found the leak.

Refrigerant that contains colored or UV dye can also be added to an A/C system to find a leak. Run the A/C for 20 minutes or so to give the dye plenty of time to circulate, then look for telltale dye stains on hose and plumbing connections, around the compressor and condenser.

How do I fix an A/C refrigerant leak?

The right way to fix a leak is to replace the leaky component (hose, o-ring seal, compressor, condenser or evaporator). However, some small leaks can be sealed by adding a sealer product designed for use in an A/C system. The sealer will circulate with the refrigerant and hopefully plug the leak, saving the labor and cost of replacing system components.

Can I recharge my A/C system myself?

Yes. Most auto parts stores sell do-it-yourself A/C recharging kits that include a hose connector and valve for attaching a can of refrigerant to the LOW PRESSURE service port on your A/C system. Just make sure you make the connection to the LOW PRESSURE service port, not the HIGH PRESSURE port which could cause the can of refrigerant to explode! Wear eye protection and avoid skin contact with any refrigerant that might leak out of the can because it can cause frostbite.

Once the can is connected to the LOW side of the A/C system, start the engine, turn the A/C on and open the valve that allows refrigerant to flow from the can into the system. It’s a slow process that can take 10 to 15 minutes or longer depending on the ambient temperature and how much refrigerant is in the system.

For step-by-step instructions, see How To Recharge Your Car’s Air Conditioner.

Can I replace a bad A/C compressor myself?

Yes. But you are not supposed to intentionally vent any refrigerant that may still be in the A/C system into the atmosphere. A repair facility with a refrigerant recovery machine can capture the refrigerant for recycling and reuse. If there is no refrigerant in the system, then replacing the A/C compressor is a simple matter of disconnecting the hoses and drive belt from the compressor, then removing the compressor and installing the new one in its place.

Once the new compressor is installed and all the hoses have been reconnected, the A/C system needs to be vacuum purged to such out all the air and moisture from the system. This is absolutely essential before you recharge the system with refrigerant. If the air is not removed, it will prevent the system from accepting a full charge of refrigerant, resulting in poor cooling. Also, moisture is a contaminant that can form acids and sludge that can damage a new compressor.

Be sure to add the specified amount of the correct compressor oil for your vehicle. The oil can be added with the refrigerant through the LOW side service port.

How hard is it to replace an A/C evaporator core?

It is a time-consuming and difficult job because it requires a lot of disassembly. The evaporator core is located inside the HVAC unit behind the dash, so the dash usually has to be removed to access and open up the HVAC plenum assembly. The job can easily take 6 to 8 hours or more. We recommend leaving this job to a professional.

I have an older vehicle with an R-12 A/C system. It needs refrigerant but I can’t find any R-12. What can I do?

R-12 has been out of production for many years, so your only repair options are to use an alternative R-12 refrigerant, or to convert your R-12 system to R-134a. The alternative refrigerants are drop-in substitutes for R-12 so you should encounter no problems. Avoid any that are classified as flammable (which are illegal in most states).

Converting to R-134a may or may not be a simple matter of substituting one refrigerant for another. R-134a is chemically different than R-12 and does not cool quite as well when used in an R-12 system. It also requires a different compressor oil (PAG or POE oil instead of mineral oil).

For more information about converting an older R-12 system to R-134a, see R-134a Retrofit Guide.

Why did R-134a replace R-12?

R-12 was used up until the mid 1990s in all automotive A/C systems because it cooled well. But it has a major drawback: it was a CFC that contained chlorine. If it leaked into the atmosphere, the chlorine caused damage to the Earth’s protective ozone layer. When this was discovered, the decision was made to phase it out and replace it with a non_CFC refrigerant. R-12 is no loner produced in the U.S.

R-134a was introduced as the chlorine-free ozone friendly replacement for R-12 in 1992, and because standard in 1995 on all cars and light trucks in the U.S. R-134a does not cool quite as efficiently as R-12, but its pretty close. Unfortunately, it was later discovered that R-134 is a potent global greenhouse gas that contributes to global warming the same as carbon dioxide. So the decision was made to phase it out and replace it with yet another refrigerant R-1234yf.

As long as R-134a remains sealed inside an A/C system, it causes no environmental harm. But if it escapes and enters the atmosphere because of a leak or an accident that punctures the A/C condenser, it adds to the global warming problem. The small amount of refrigerant (less than 1 to 2 lbs. in most cases) that would leak from a typical automotive A/C system is not a big deal in itself, but when you consider that the world vehicle population now exceeds 1 BILLION vehicles, it can add up because the Global Warming Potential (GWP) rating of of R-134a is 1300 times higher than carbon dioxide.

Currently, there are no plans to ban the production of R-134a, so if you need R-134a refrigerant later on it should always be available.

Why did R-1234yf replace R-134a?

R-1234yf is the latest “environmentally friendly” refrigerant to go widespread use. It contains no CFCs (ozone friendly), has a substantially lower Global Warming Potential (GWP) rating of 4 compared to 1300 for R-134a, and is mostly nonflammable (except under certain unlikely conditions). R-1234yf also breaks down faster than R-134a if it leaks into the atmosphere (11 days versus 13 years for R-134a!).

R-1234yf as first used in a few 2013 and 2014 model year vehicles, but has since been added to more and more late model vehicles. R-1234yf A/C systems can be identified by a service label under the hood and different service fittings.

However, R-1234yf does not cool as efficiently as R-134a or R-12, so it requires some changes in the A/C system such as a more efficient condenser, a pipe-style receiver-dryer on the condenser rather than an accumulator and orifice tube, and slightly different operating pressures. A special type of PAG compressor oil is also required for R-1234yf compressors, as well as a J2843 compliant refrigerant recovery machine for recovering refrigerant from the A/C system.

NOTE: R-1234yf is way more expensive than R-134a, so you may be tempted to substitute R-134a for R-1234yf if your A/C system needs refrigerant. The auto makers do NOT recommend using anything other than R-1234yf in a late model A/C system that was designed for R-1234yf. R-134a will work but possibly not as well as R-1234yf.

Also the type of PAG oil required for a R-1234yf system is different than the PAG oils used in R-134a systems. Using the wrong oil may damage the A/C compressor. Refer to the A/C service decal or your owners manual for the correct type of PAG oil to use in your A/C system.

For more information see HFO-1234yf Refrigerant.

There are about three major causes of car audio problems. Of course one is old age, and the problems thereof are inevitable. The second cause is components that do not match perfectly to enable production of high quality sound. The other cause, which happens to be quite common, is incorrect installation.

When any of the above causes happens, many car audio problems can result. Some problems are related to the radio while others are speaker related. The lines below inform on the 7 most common car stereo problems and how to identify them. Solutions for each problem are provided in such a simple and understandable way that anyone without an engineering degree can apply them.

1. Car radio not working

Car radio fails to work properly when there is a problem in any of the power sources or in parts where current passes through.

Wiring is one of the issues that might cause car radio to fail. The radio is connected to the power source and speakers through wires mostly found underneath the dashboard. If there’s a problem in the wiring, the radio will definitely not work.

Secondly, car radios use fuses to prevent damage due to power upsurges. If the fuse is blown, the car’s audio circuit is broken and the radio cannot turn on. The other cause of car radio not working could be power or ground connector problem.

Symptoms to look for include:

• Radio fails to turn on – wiring problem or blown fuse
• Radio turns of at irregular intervals – there’s either a power or ground connection problem.
• Car radio display and sound goes on and off together – head unit might not be getting enough power
• Radio goes off when negotiating a corner or passing a bump – a connector at the back of the unit is loose

What to do when car radio is not working

Check whether the fuse is blown using a multimeter. First make sure that the system’s power is off, then having set your multimeter to ohms, touch the metal caps of the fuse with the multimeter’s testing leads and see whether or not a reading is recorded. If the multimeter shows a reading, the fuse is not blown; otherwise, no reading indicates that fuse is blown.

Also check for wiring problems and issues with ground connections. If the ground connection is loose or rusted, it has to be fixed for the radio to work properly.

2. Newly installed head unit has no power

If you find out that power cuts out in your recently installed aftermarket head unit, it’s highly likely that the head unit is not receiving 12V.

Another cause for this head unit problem could be that your amplifier has switched into protection mode. There are two explanations for this. One, power produced by the alternator is too much for the amplifier and it has to protect itself from damage. Two, the battery is unable to provide the audio system with constant voltage.

The most common symptom for this problem is the head unit cuts out and comes back after a while.

Solution for head unit has no power’ problem

Use a voltmeter to check if the power wire is sending 12V to the head unit. It the wire is doing so, then the problem’s with the head unit. But if you find out that the power wire is not sending 12V, it could be changed. Some fuses could also be blown and have to be replaced. Also check the battery; maybe the battery water needs to be refilled.

3. No bass from car speakers

This is a car stereo problem that usually occurs when factory speakers are being upgraded or aftermarket speakers are being installed or repaired. What can cause speakers to lack bass?

For bass to be produced, speakers need to push air at the same time. The “no bass” problem occurs when one speaker pushes while the other pulls air. This mostly happens when the speakers are out of polarity.

Another reason for the “no bass” scenario is that aftermarket speakers are heavier and harder than factory speakers. These speakers improve the quality of your car stereo but eat up the bass of your factory speakers.

Symptom:

You don’t hear any bass at any volume level.

How to solve the ‘no bass’ car stereo problem?

Check whether the speaker wires are connected to the stereo amp and head unit appropriately. The positive (+) terminal of the speaker should be connected to the positive terminal of any other component, including the battery. Same case applies to the negative (-) terminal.

Another potential solution is installing an external amplifier. Some people opt to have a head unit upgrade to solve the no bass problem. The bottom line is that your car stereo needs something that puts in more watts.

4. Unwanted noises in the car audio system

Hearing mysterious noises from car audio system is a very frustrating experience. Nearly every driver has encountered car stereo noise at one time. There are numerous sources of unwanted noises but here are some of the most common ones:

Alternator whine: This is the most common car stereo noise. It often happens when ground for either the head unit or speaker’s amplifier is poorly chosen. Poor condition of the charging system as well as connections between the audio system components and the battery can also result to alternator whine.

Symptom of alternator whine: You hear a noise that fluctuates with the RPMs of your vehicle’s alternator. Alternator whine rises and falls with engine speed in a pretty annoying way.

Accessory pop: This noise is normally associated with a particular electrical event. Usually, accessories like headlights, windshield wipers, turn signal and brakes draw high current and cause a voltage spike that then travels to the audio system.

Symptom: A sharp pop sound is heard when you switch onor press high current car accessories like the ones listed above.

Symptom: A sharp pop sound is heard when you switch onor press high current car accessories like the ones listed above.

Speaker popping and crackling: It’s often caused by breaking down due to old age or poor input quality or bad radio connection.

Symptom: speaker crackles when the engine is turned on and when the car is in motion.

Getting rid of unwanted noises from car stereo

For alternator whine, find the component that’s producing noise and re-grounding it.

A clean, bare chassis metal is the ideal grounding. Also ensure that the charging system is in its best condition. All connections (battery posts, alternator connections, head unit, amplifiers, signal processors, and ground strap) should be secure.

To eliminate noise due to accessory pops, add a small bi-polar capacitor between the power wire of the accessory producing noise and its ground. The capacitor will absorb the power surges thus preventing their transfer to the car’s audio system.

If there’s speaker popping and crackling, swap the channel and check whether the noise will seize. Otherwise, crackling that happens all the time no matter what channel the radio is on means that the speaker is broken and has to be repaired or replaced.

5. Sound suddenly cuts off

Sound cuts normally occur when the amplifier is getting overheating or a speaker wire has become loose. Amplifiers normally generate lots of heat especially when music is played at high volumes for long periods. To manage this amount of heat, the amplifier needs to be getting enough airflow.

This problem is signified by sound from car speaker(s) suddenly cutting off and coming back after a short while.

To solve this problem, ensure that there’s enough airflow where the amplifier is mounted.
The airflow keeps the amp cool at all times and prevents sudden sound cut offs. Also check speaker wires to ensure that they are properly connected.

6. Car stereo becomes too hot

Faulty wiring is the major cause of car stereo getting unusually hot. Speakers could be incorrectly wired, or wires that are supposed to run separately have been combined.

There is no problem with the system getting warm since various electrical devices heat up while in use. However, generation of too much heat could be an indication of a malfunction. It is important to note that abnormal buildup of heat can be dangerous. The heat can damage various parts of the car stereo and even cause a fire.

Symptom to check: The car stereo becomes too hot to touch when on.

Solution: You probably need to check the entire installation and wiring of the car audio system. If there’s no installation or wiring faults and the stereo still runs hot, the ultimate solution might be servicing the entire system.

7. Car stereo problems due to poor grounding

The majority of non-equipment related audio problems result from poorly chosen ground points. Apart from alternator whine, poor grounding can cause the amplifier to clip.

Poor grounding can cause the amp to cut in and out. When the car stereo is turned up, the amps pull more current. If the system has an unreliable ground the amp cannot pull the needed current. This normally sends the amp into clipping.

Symptoms of poor grounding: Alternator whine; and the audio system produces crappy sounds.

Proper grounding on car stereo

As you check the integrity of other connections, always remember that grounding is of utmost importance. If you install a large car audio system, it will require a bigger ground. Also important to remember is that grounds should be on the car’s chassis. Many people make a mistake of using the negative battery post as a ground for the car audio system. This is a terrible place as the entire ripple from various items including the alternator travels through this point. Using it a ground invites all the noise from these items into the sound system.

The stereo is the main part of your car’s music system. Without it, your in-car entertainment is rarely enjoyable. For music lovers, especially, driving a car without stereo is unimaginable. The truth is that lack of proper maintenance can result to your car stereo showing the problems discussed above. To ensure your sound system is working the way it should, there’s need for a full diagnostic of the system. Installation faults as well as other causative issues will be addressed and the system will definitely run properly to give you the best sound quality.

When you know how to identify and solve common car stereo problems, you can always take care of your car stereo and enjoy great music and hands-free calling in your car.

You may also like to see: Best 6×8 Car Speakers Review: Definitive Guide For 2019

• Slow or no start
• Engine misfire
• Engine that runs rough
• Rough idling
• Poor acceleration
• High fuel consumption

Benefits of Changing Your Spark Plugs

If you think it won’t make that much of a difference if you change your spark plugs or not, think again. There are plenty of benefits you’ll find once you get them replaced on your vehicle. Some of these benefits include:

• Improved fuel economy – Having a worn-out spark plug can reduce your fuel economy by as much as 30%, and replacing it can help gain that back.
• Consistent combustion system – Spark plugs allow for the continuous production of combustion and leave your vehicle’s system running as it should be.
• Your Vehicle Starts Smoothly – When you replace your spark plug and turn the key in the ignition, you can feel your vehicle start effortlessly.
• Less harmful emissions – Replacing your vehicle’s spark plugs can not only help increase your gas mileage but also improve your emissions.

For Your Kia Needs, Visit Kingdom Kia

If you’ve had any of the experiences listed above, it may be due to your spark plugs or ignition. Whatever the case may be, our service team is always here to take a look, replace them for you, and get you back on Jefferson City and Fort Leonard Wood roads in no time. And, you can save even more on the Kia services and parts you need most when you take advantage of our service and parts specials. Contact us today to schedule an appointment!